This is the second part of a bikepacking fortnight trip we did in Sweden, Denmark, Poland and Germany in 2018
When on a multi-day bike tour, never succumb to waking up later every day. It was past 9 AM when Jenna “knocked” at our tent. Last night we had bought the tickets for ferry to Bornholm, so we had to hurry – departure is in 2 days. We were already on Kullaberg peninsula, but Mölle was still way ahead and at best we could get there by midday. Temperature was crawling towards 35°C.
Due to it’s position, Mölle’s and the Kulleberg natural reserve’s climate resembles Mediterranean, pleasantly warm and not too humid. The whole place looks like a Greek postcard with white cliffs, lush juicy vegetation, summer smell of pine, grapes and figs growing here and there. Grapes and figs growing in Scandinavia blew Patri’s mind. No wonder it used to be a top spot for summer recreation in Swedes before air travels became common. Even today a lot of local tourists visit it and spend a week or two. Moreover, public infrastructure is just amazing like free pool and showers. If you are passing between Malmö and Gothenburg this wonder is a must visit!
Still it was an unexpected place as well. Through the whole city stretches a sandy beach with lots of sport and recreation facilities and hundreds of people playing beach volleyball, enjoying ice cream, or simply strolling as if it was somewhere on the shore of Black or Mediterranean Sea. And the houses where alike with huge windows, and seemingly not insulated.
In order to be on schedule, we had to continue straight to Landskrona sparing ourselves from 150 km ride next day. Now our average dropped to 18 km/h. The road was constantly changing from a bicycle lane to dirt road to car carriageway and few times we even lost our way. In addition the wind was getting stronger and a thunderstorm was approaching. Finally we had to stop for a nigh, next to the road, on the field with some kind of sea view after a beautiful sunset riding on the shore.
Morning of 4th of July, but Jenna seemed not to remember what that day is in US. The rain had never come the previous night and it was getting hot again. On the road, we lost each other again, this time Stan disappeared. Fortunately we could reunite next to a huge UFO-like construction in Landskrona. Some parts of the town looked quite out of place for a several centuries old military fort and marine base. Most noticeably, the above mentioned UFO-inspired water tower opposite of the soil-and-rock fortification of Castle.
The terrain got boring since we had moved away from the seashore and entered Skåne, the “granary of Sweden”. The next stop – Lund, an old University town, almost uninhabited during summer break. Right before entering the town, Patri’s rack started to shake weirdly. It appeared, that one of the connection screws fell off and we needed to find a new one ASAP. But everything in the town center was closed.
Hiding in the shade of the small park between University and Danish king’s castle (reminder of Danish rule over the most of southern Scandinavian peninsula with their sit in Lund) we stopped for a quick lunch. Although the first experience with salad bar was a disaster, we continued to have this for every lunch – it became our “unofficial sponsor”! 🙂
The singe open bike workshop was university’s Cykellab on the edge of the town. Although it looked like it was closed, there was a guy who helped us to make a temporary fix. Now it was time to hurry as 110+ km still ahead of us.
They say, south of Sweden is totally flat, but actually all the way it resembled a roller coaster ride. Tired we finally saw the Baltic sea. Still there was one more obstacle ahead – highway, where our road was heading. As there were no other way, we had to merge into it.
Gosh, how angry were those few drivers on the road, beeping and shouting like crazy. We literally ran away from that road down the hill to a small field road with bikes in our hands.
Only in the city Jenna recalled, what day that was. To celebrate US Independence and the end of 500 km part in Sweden, we went to a restaurant for the first time on the trip. And it was well worth it.
Because departure was at 7:30, we decided to camp basically in the port, on a private campground. In the morning we got to hurry as the car gate of the ferry was on the other side of the port and the crew didn’t want to let us through together with the pedestrians. Of course there was no vegetarian breakfast onboard 🙁
Now we arrived to Denmark! Bornholm is as tiny island, remnant of Danish reign over Baltics. It has the 3rd biggest forest of the whole country, while one can cross the whole island on feet in 5 hours (shame on you Denmark!). Also Francois’ fiends live there, our beloved roomate’s partner, and we were to stay with them! First feeling about the island – just another joint towns community. On the other side of Bornholm however, it felt quite different.
It took just 1.3 hour to cross the whole island by bike, and we got to the farm where we were supposed to stay. This collective with 10 adults and several kids grows and sells labeled organic veggies that we helped to plant. We were warmly welcomed by them, and got a short tour around the place. After leaving all the luggage, we went to explore the island’s natural beauty. And there was a lot to find, especially on the northern coast with a reserve, lighthouse and a castle in the distance. We came back well past midnight with the unusually bright moon and the starfields to guide us, since all out gadgets died long ago. Back at the farm, most were already sleeping, so we could spend a bit more time with our hosts only next morning.
If you haven’t yet read first part of this bikepacking trilogy, make sure to do so
Stay tune for more!
by Stan from RollingCondoms